I've just been in Kotor, on the coast of Montenegro.
The walled old town (picture) is traffic-free. This makes walking around its cosy lanes and squares delightful.
Until the cruise-ship daytrippers arrive, when you pine for the relative tranquillity of the North Circular.
The only way to move things around (apart from an electric cart which takes the bins in and out) is therefore by trolley or bike.
So many of the locals either own or rent cargo trikes like this (picture).
Although it's apparently taking up a car-parking space, it causes no problems with motorists in the main town's streets.
That's because Balkan drivers just park on the pavement anyway (picture).
Anyway, here's a Kotor family back from the supermarket run (picture) on a model of more rusty vintage.
The bikes tend to be pushed when in the old town, as cycling per se seems to be prohibited too.
But definitely open to bikes - and closed to cars - is the shoreline road 20km to Tivat, along the headland in the top left of this picture. Kotor old town is the red triangle at the bottom (picture).
It's a stunning ride, and - rarely for mountainous Montenegro - flat.
So I was told. Though if that information is as trustworthy as Podgorica's taxi drivers, you'll need crampons and oxygen.
I would have done it, except the only bikes available for hire in Kotor were those cargo trikes. I could have taken quite a picnic with me, though.
01 May 2013
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